Pictures from the Picasso Museum

Sausage and aligot

Veal piccata and aligot

Our Last Day

We took the Metro to Anvers and then walked to the Abesses Metro stop to meet our tour guide from Paris Walks for a tour of Montmartre.  Paris Walks is great because you don't need to sign up ahead of time -just meet your guide at the appointed spot, pay a minimal fee and off you go.  The guides are all professional, speak English well and really know their area.  Our tour was 2 hours long and there were about 20 of us.  We saw all the interesting spots in Montmartre - the only remaining windmill, the apartments where many famous artists lived, including Salvador Dali, Au Lapin Agile, a famous nightclub, the last vinyard in Paris and ended at Sacre Cour, a Romano-Byzantine church started in 1870. Throughout the tour we had alternating rain and sun, which made it difficult for our guide but didn't detract from the tour. We then went into Sacre Cour, which is unusual and beautiful.  The view from the hill upon which it sits is spectacular.  We walked around the corner and went to St Pierre de Montmartre, which was originally a Benedictine Abbey and is one of the oldest churches in Paris, founded in 1133.  A stray bomb during WWII destroyed the stained glass windows and they were replaced by Gothic style stained glass.  We stopped at a bistrot, St Jean, for lunch and  had  Croque St Jean (tomato, cheese and ham) and beer.  We walked around for a while, bought candy in a beautiful chocolate shop, got the Metro back to Bastille and picked up some macarons to bring home at Lenotre. We finished our packing, called to confirm our pick-up by the limo service and then went out to Au Bouquet St Paul for a light dinner.  We shared a salad and baked camembert with honey and we both had Onion soup and Berthillon ice cream for dessert.  I had caramel and pear and Leas had caramel and raspberry.  Back to the apartment and to bed, sad that this wonderful adventure has come to an end, but so glad we were lucky enough to experience it together.

Great metro sign

Artist apartments

Statue on Sacre Cour

Sacre Cour

Croque St Jean

View from Sacre Cour

Debunking the Myths

Numerous times during our three weeks we were taken by the myths about the French that are either no longer true or maybe never were.  A few that were most noticeable:
The French don't eat on the street, but only sitting in restaurants or at home.  Daily we saw lots and lots of French people walking and eating all manner of food from ham sandwiches and crepes to cakes and pasteries.

No one but tourists wear tennis shoes in Paris - so not true.  Tennis shoes are seen on everyone's feet and are in all the store windows.  They have some of the most novel and colorful tennis shoes I've ever seen, many that match the outfits they're shown with.

Parisiens don't wear shorts.  Although we were there during a chilly, rainy spell, we saw a fair number of locals wearing shorts.  Summer probably really brings them out.

The French don't really say Bon appetit.  They do!  At least half of the restaurants we ate  in said those very words when they served us.

You have to fight for a seat on the Metro and people don't give up their seat.  I will admit that during the busy hours, all Metro seats are taken and when one person gets up, another is almost immediately in their place.  However, I had a seat offered to me on many many occassions and by all ages.

Most French people smoke.  Although the number of people smoking is higher than in the US, there are a lot fewer smoking than previously.

The French rarely smile and think we smile way too much and for no reason.  It is true that the French don't walk around with a smile on their face but, usually when we smiled at one of them (even on the Metro) we got a smile in return.

TRUTHS

The French do talk to themselves - all the time and everywhere.

They always wear scarves.  Man and women both seem unable to go out the door without a scarf around their neck, but they always look good in them.

You still have to watch where you step as only a few of them pick up after their dogs.

Coming to the End

RestaurantDidn't have much planned for today as we've done almost everything on our list so we walked over to the Islands and then through the Latin Quarter and Saint Germaine - just strolling and wandering streets.  Rained on us a few times but we're getting pretty used to that.  Back to Ile Saint Louis and stopped at a small restaurant for lunch as we liked their menu on this cold, rainy and windy day.  Aux Anisetiers du Roy is a building that's 4 centuries old and quite small and quaint  I had cassoulet and Leas had beef Bourgounon.  Both were very good and mine was one of the best cassoulets I've ever had.  We continued to wander and ended up at Carette in Place des Vosges about 4:30 so I could have their hot chocolate; delicious and almost like drinking chocolate pudding.  Also had a crepe with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce.  Then headed back home so we could get a head start on packing.

Restaurant

Cassoulet

Inside of the restaurant

L'Opera & shopping

Took the Metro to L'Opera Garnier, one of the most elegant buildings ever.  It was started in 1862 and completed in 1875.  The staircase and foyer are majestic and the ceilings and auditorium (5 tiered) are opulent.  The lake underneath was the inspiration for the Phantom of the Opera.  Then we went to Galleries Lafayette looking for the Epicierie, which has shops run by all the best chocolatiers and pastry chefs etc.  As the store is now in several buildings on all sides of the street, it took us a few tries to find the right one and then we went in the door for Japanese tourists.  They have an area with perfumes, cosmetics, liqour, handbags and other luxury items with all Japanese speaking sales associates and the tour busses lined up outside.  We got through the crown of thousands and had to stop at the coffee bar for a little refreshment before shopping.  We both bought some chocolate and Bordier butter (which is supposed to be the best you can buy and is only sold here and one other spot).  We left there and walked over to La Madeleine, a church dedicated to Mary Magdalene, started in 1764 and consecrated in1845.  It is very lavish inside and an imposing building on the outside.  The square, Place de la Madeleine has lots of interesting food shops, including Fauchon (the millionaires supermarket).  As it was lunch time, we decided to try Cafe de la Paix, there since 1862 and also designed by Garnier.  It was quite elegant and, although on the expensive side, worth it for the experience.  I had oysters and Leas had a salmon club sandwich and fries.  Good food in a fun and elegant spot with great people watching. After lunch, we walked to Place de la Concord and caught the Metro home.  We stayed in the rest of the evening as we're both wearing down.  Fixed scrambled eggs with lardons for dinner.  Today was cold and windy, alternating with sun.  

Saturday, May 16

Today was a lazy slow morning, a sign that we're wearing down a bit and really did a lot yesterday.  When we finally got ourselves going, we walked to the Musee Cognacq-Jay, a small  museum of artwork bequeathed to the city by Ernest Cognacq who founded the Samaritaine department store.  It is housed in a townhouse built at the end of the 16th C and has been open since 1990.  Most of the art is 18th C and their are some beautiful porcelain pieces and sculptures.  The building and furniture are always interesting to see.  We then walked to the Musee de la Poupee, a small museum devoted to dolls and doll houses.  Very interesting and I, as a collector of paper dolls, bought some in the gift shop.  Right ouside the museum is the Jardin of Anne Frank so we went through it before moving on to a church which was closed.  Luckily we were able fo hit several shops on our list along the way and we headed to the next goal, the Tour de Jean Sans Peur, built in 1408 by the Duc de Bourgogne as an addition to his home for protection.  Then walked rue Montorgueil, another pedestrian shopping street.  Stopped for a pizza at Le Brelan, really delicious , and took  the Metro home from Chatelet.  Picked up some bread and wine before going backt to the apartment for the night.

Carousel at Sacre Cour

Anne Frank museumdolls

May 15

This  morning took the Metro to the Arenes de Lutece, the ruins of a Roman amphitheater which was used for burials in the 4th century. It had a seating capacity of 15,000 and was used for theatrical productions and gladiator fights in the late 2nd century.  Then went to the church of Saint Etienne du Mont (the steps from the movie Midnight in Paris), the Pantheon, where many of France's heroes are buried; Voltaire, Victor Hugo, Rousseau and Emile Zola among others.  Then went to the church of Saint Nicholas du Chardonet, which has beautiful crystal chandeliers. We stopped for a croissant and cafe creme and then took the Metro to the Musee D'Orsay, a railroad station turned into a museum which holds lots of impressionists paintings.  We walked from there over to the right bank (had a delicious crepe from a cart on the bridge) to go to the Orangerie, which holds two rooms of Monets' water lilies.  Then we walked through the Tuileries, sat by the pond and watched the ducks and then continued to the Place du Parvis in front of Notre Dame, where the Fete du Pain was being held.  The festival of bread is  a week long celebration of bakers and bread which is held every year in all the cities and towns of France.  A huge tent was set up in front of Notre Dame and filled with ovens, bakers racks and everything else needed by bakers.  As soon as we entered the tent, we were offered a fresh baked croissant, still warm and delicious.  We wandered around watching all the activity and then bought a baguette fresh out of the oven and walked over to visit the Memorial of the Martyrs of the Deportation, which is in memory of the 200,000 who were sent to Nazi concentration camps in WWII.  We crossed over to Ile St Louis and stopped for a kir and then visited the church Saint Louis en I'lle, begun in 1664 and consecrated in 1726.  Finally headed back home to rest until about 8:30 when we went out to dinner at Gaspard de la Nuit.  I had mussels and leeks and lamb with vegetables and Leas had the pepper steak.  Really good bottle of wine.  Back home and to bed.  Today was cold and windy and the city is getting more crowded.