View of Notre Dame from the back

Sunset

Last Day in Paris

Hotel de Ville on Bastille Day

Eiffel Tower

Controlling the Protesters

Anthony the photographer

Roses in the Champs de Mars

Life in Paris

Anthony playing at the jam

Random Thoughts

Time really does go fast - three weeks in Paris seemed like a really long time, but I still have lots of things on my to do or see list. Biggest problem seems to be stamina - don't think we have three full weeks of stamina in us anymore!

Walking three or four blocks with grocerIes would get old very fast so, if I lived here, I would definately have a rolling cart.

Another sign that we're older than before is the fact that we can't eat nearly as much as we used to eat while traveling. One normal meal, one very small meal and a palmier or croissant for breakfast has left me feeling very over stuffed.

After 2 1/2 weeks, I finally learned how to open the apartment door and, as it turns out, it's quite easy.  You just have to pull the door handle toward you as you turn the key to the right, but  that was not explained.

Street Musicians

I find it interesting that, despite a tax rate of 19.6% plus a TVA (value added tax) of 5.5%, Parisiens seem to eat out a lot, sit in cafes and drink coffee and shop.  The government controls a lot of things we wouldn't accept, like the fact merchants are only allowed to have sales twice a year - during the month of January and July but everything seems to run pretty smoothly.  Garbage is picked up daily at the apartment and, on the street, it's picked up several times a day and the streets are washed down daily.  Their transportation system is extremely efficient, they have free health care but their are a lot of very poor people begging in the street.  There are also a lot of street musicians who seem to do quite well and many are very talented.

A Bang Up End to a Great Trip

Fireworks by the Eiffel Tower on Bastille Day - our last day in Paris.

Fireman walking small boy up the ladder

After breakfast, packed a little and walked over to Hotel de Ville where the Sapeurs Pompiers were putting on  demonstrations and had all the old fire equipment out for everyone to climb on, sit in, etc.  They were also putting climbing equipment on little kids (as young as 3 or 4), hooking them to a rope and them helping them climb the ladder on the ladder truck.  They were amazingly patient and the kids were having a ball.  Can't see it happening here without the signing of a lot of papers.   Then we walked to the Brasserie Marguarite on the corner for a kir and some people watching.  The military of all types were wandering around - lots of young men with their girlfriends and they all seemed to be having a great National Day.  We met Greer and Anthony back at the apartment and went down to the corner for a pizza before walking to the Pont Neuf to watch the fireworks at 11.    All the bridges and quais with a view of the Eiffel Tower were packed and I'm sure there were thousands at the Pont Neuf.  I stood on the light post in the middle of the bridge to get a good view and it was spectacular.  I'm sure it would have been fantastic to hear the choreographed music with it but we weren't willing to brave the Champ de Mars and the one million people who watch from there.  They arrive about 2 with their picnics and the concerts start at 5.  I'm sure it's fun but way too many people for me.  After the finale we walked back to the apartment, finished packing and tried to get some sleep.

Wednesday, on the downside

Can't believe it's almost time to leave- it went so fast but, at the same time, we're pretty ready to be heading home. Didn't do very much, went to the grocery store for the usual - diet coke, beer & wine and then the long walk home carrying the goods. Shopped for some gifts and then got ready for Greer's birthday dinner. I made the reservation online, prepaid and had no printer so I had to take the ipad to show them what I had signed up and paid for. Although it wasn't too far we decided to take a taxi to save time (Greer & Anthony spent the afternoon at the Louvre and walking around the right bank) so we walked around the corner to the taxi stand at Notre Dame and got the only taxi driver in Paris who seemed to have no idea where anything was. He drove us in circles for 30 minutes, through the tunnels under Les Halles twice and was very upset he couldn't get us to our destination. He knew where we wanted to go, but couldn't find the streets to get us there so we finally got out and walked the last blocks . He said it was derriere(behind us) but didn't know how to get to it and didn't speak any English. I had signed up for the 3 course menu with an aperitif, bottle of wine & bottle of water but we got lucky and had a really special dinner. I took a picture of the chef two years ago and brought him a copy which seemed to really please him. The waitress told us that chef said we could have the five course wine pairing menu so Greer, Ant & I chose that and Peter stayed with the original. The five courses are all chosen by the chef and Ant got somewhat nervous when the waitress started setting our places with 4 knives & forks (two of the knives were fish knives and he was sure he was going to get something way out there and would end up hungry).

First Course: Fois gras served with Guvertztraminer- it was heavenly and we all decided it was our favorite. We told them that Peter couldn't eat seafood and were told the chef would take care of him. He started with veau ris- the waitress told him veal after he had taken a bite and deemed it good- he's still asking what he ate and we are telling him veal.

Second Course: Scallops on a bed of thinly sliced beets with a balsamic reduction served with a white burgundy. The scallops melted in your mouth.

Third Course: A whitefish with asparagus and a mushroom duxelle sauce served with a petit chablis- yes, very good.

Fourth Course: Duck breast and roasted potatoes with foie gras sauce with a red bordeaux. Peter had ordered veal tournedos which came with roasted potatoes. All very good. The chef also added a cheese plate for Peter as he didn't have as many courses as we did.  He was also given all of the wines that came with our 5 courses.

Dessert: Creme brulee in a crunchy chocolate crust with starfruit, strawberry, blackberry & raspberry served with champagne. All in all a great evening and a fantastic meal. Happy Birthday Greer.

Only Two More Days

And I think that's about all we can handle, as we're really worn out. Peter is very tired and I'm right behind him. I also think I've lost track of what we did on what day so some of this may be out of order. I' m writing this on Bastille Day as we're getting ready to go out and see what is going on. We watched the parade on TV as I read that was the best way to really see it. Heard the planes go over and, at times, it sounded like they were barely above the building.
On Tuesday, Peter & I wandered around Les Halles, shopping and just roaming. Greer & Ant slept in late and then roamed some of the same area and we met back at the apt to go to dinner. (They think the right bank is seedier than the left). We went into St Eustache, which remains my favorite church in Paris. A young man was playing the organ the entire time we were there and it seems like there is often music in that church. We stopped for a kir at Taverne Karlsbrau after I went into Dehilleran, the largest cooking supply store In Paris (and maybe the world) and the one all the chefs go to for their supplies. It was amazing and I've never seen such a production made for a simple purchase. I think there were 5 people involved, often yelling at each other, looking up prices in a huge book, filling out the sales book, then typing out the order at which point I was able to pay for it and then return to where the order was written up to have it wrapped and take possession. It took over 45 minutes to buy just a few small items. I was standing in line behind a young girl (American) who just finished cooking school and was about to start her internship at a restaurant in the 13th arrondissment. She was buying a knife case and looking forward to learning a lot, but not looking forward to how tired she will be all the time--the life of a chef requires long hours on your feet so you must be passionate about food. We went to Le Latin St. Jacques for dinner where I had onion soup, tagliatelle with mussels & octopus and chocolate and caramel ice cream. Peter had the rum steak with salad & fries. It was served on a hot stone so he cooked it himself, much like teppin. For dessert, he had the strawberry & citrus sorbet. Greer had the salad with warm goat cheese, a steak and cheese plate for dessert. Ant had onion soup and the chicken and duck breast on the hot stone and sorbet for dessert.