We decided to take advantage of Patrimonie and some of the open buildings so started at Hotel de Sens, constructed in 1475. There were several exhibits for the occasion, one of them with several artisans, working with apprentices and explaining how to do various craft work such as wood inlay.
There is an also an extensive library, which we went through. We then got in line to enter the Hotel de Ville, the city hall of Paris. We were within the first 50 people in line but it didn't move for a very long time and, by the time we entered, there were hundreds waiting. The building, as it now stands, was officially opened in 1882. It was an almost identical reconstruction of the original Renaissance facade which had been completed in 1628 and burned in 1871. The building is filled with lavish reception rooms, the council chambers and the mayors office. It's all very ornate and beautiful and a highlight was getting to see the very large corner office occupied by the mayor, which is not available for viewing during normal tours, but only opened during Patrimonie. As the announcement that Paris will host the 2024 Olympics, there was lots of publicity throughout. We then went over & strolled the Islands and had lunch at one of my favorites, Rose de France in Place Dauphine on the Ile de la Cite. Leas had a salad Caprese and we both had prawns with risotto, which was really creamy and delicious. I had the citron creme brulee for dessert, also delicious. We walked through the flower and bird markets - I think they had birds of every imaginable color for sale. Stopped in front of Notre Dame at Point Zero and walked to the lower level by the Seine to check out a food fair of southwestern food. It was interesting but really crowded and a huge black and ominous cloud was following us so we didn't stay too long. Got ice cream at Berthillon on the Ile Saint Louis and then went back to the apartment. We had dinner at home with ham, cheese, baguettes and pastries (and wine, of course).
Sunday, November 5, 2017
Thursday, November 2, 2017
Saturday, September 16th
Went to Musee Jacquemart Andre, a small museum in the 8th located in the home of the Jacquemarts and housing their private collection of art in addition to a traveling collection. I was there in 2011 when they had an exhibit by the brothers Caillebotte, one a painter & one a photographer. This time the exhibit was the Secret Garden of Hansen and paintings by Renoir, Matisse and Manet among others. The house itself is very interesting and well preserved. We had lunch in the tea room cafe which receives very good reviews. We sat outside on the patio which is enclosed in plastic and very comfortable. It was full the entire time we were there and we both had the spinach and ham quiche which was served with a green salad and was very good. Then we walked over to Parc Monceau, one of my favorites as it's small and very pretty with a small lake, roman columns, a small waterfall and lots of flower beds. From there we went to Musee Nissim de Camondo, a mansion at the turn of the 20th century. It was the home of a Jewish banking family who collected 18th century furniture and objets d'art and had the mansion built to resemble the Petit Trianon at Versailles. The family was sent to Auschwitz, where they were killed. Moise de Camondo died in 1935 and left the mansion to the Union Centrale des Arts Decoratifs naming it after his son who died in air combat during WWI. It was inaugurated in 1936 and was both interesting and quite stunning. We then walked rue Saint Honore-Faubourg and hoped to tour the Elysee Palace as today and tomorrow are Patrimonie, when the buildings not usually open to the public, are open for viewing free; however, the line was way too long. We walked down Embassy row where most of the embassies were open, but not ours. Security was heavy everywhere and the streets are crowded with people. Back to the apartment for a short break before dinner at O'Chateau. Dinner was really delightful as the wine bar has lots of atmosphere and is very friendly. We each did a flight of wine tastings: Leas, white and me, red. All the wines were throughly explained to us; as to the grapes, where they were from, etc. We both started with tuna tataki, which was delicious, and shared the charcuterie board, also delicious. A really fun dinner and the perfect ending to a really fun day.
Tuesday, October 24, 2017
I promise to do better
Sorry about the delay in my posts but since I've been home I've been swamped with everyday life and catching up after being gone for 3 weeks. I think I'm now in the place to finish up this trip.
Friday the 15th
We wandered around Passy and then went to the Trocadero and Eiffle Tower, which was a huge disappointment as you can't even get close without standing in a long line to get through the fenced off area around the tower. The area fenced off is much larger than I thought it would be and really detracts from the iconic tower. Then we went to lunch at the very new Les Grands Verres in the Palais de Tokyo. The restaurant is actually two restaurants; the first colorful and casual with a serve yourself buffet (the food all looked very appetizing) and the second a regular restaurant in a very large, bright room with floor to ceiling windows and several tables serving larger groups of six, eight or ten. We split the mussels for an entree and they were very good but not at all what you expect when you order mussels in France. They were in a brown broth with a strong celery flavor and thin slices of celery throughout with a slightly hot after taste. Served with them was an avacado toast and there were more than enough mussels for two people. For our main dishes, Leas had buccatini with trumpets of death mushrooms (she is still with us) and I had meatballs. There were three good sized pork meatballs served in a bowl with a tomato sauce. They were served with a very large, long piece of toasted baguette with a mound of a whipped butter to spread on it. We thought the food was all very good and the room is very pleasant and comfortable. After lunch we walked over to Avenue and Suare Rapp to see the art nouveau doors by Lavirotte; really quite amazing. We walked rue Cler, a major shopping street where we picked up a Praululine at the Chocolatier Pralus. Leas read an article that said it was life changing and, although I wouldn't go that far, it is something I will really miss. It's a pastry made with brioche and studded throughout with pink candy bits and nuts. We ended up eating a slice for breakfast almost every day and we each brought one home with us to share with our families. We purchased a Food Passport which allows you to go to 6 or 12 different food spots for a tasting or sample and explanation of the shop by an employee or the owner. Today we made it to 4 of the spots where we tasted wine, callisons, caramels and meringues and met some interesting people who gave us the history of their food. After a short time back in the apartment we went over to Sainte Chapelle for a concert, performed by a string sextet. It was a beautiful classical concert and is so impressive to hear the music in that beautiful building. Walked across the Seine to Zimmer, a traditional old brasserie on the right bank. I had a bowl of onion soup and Leas had a potatoe salad with salmon. The food isn't outstanding but the red velvet and gold interior takes you back to the 40's and the food is good. Back to the apartment and to bed.
Friday the 15th
We wandered around Passy and then went to the Trocadero and Eiffle Tower, which was a huge disappointment as you can't even get close without standing in a long line to get through the fenced off area around the tower. The area fenced off is much larger than I thought it would be and really detracts from the iconic tower. Then we went to lunch at the very new Les Grands Verres in the Palais de Tokyo. The restaurant is actually two restaurants; the first colorful and casual with a serve yourself buffet (the food all looked very appetizing) and the second a regular restaurant in a very large, bright room with floor to ceiling windows and several tables serving larger groups of six, eight or ten. We split the mussels for an entree and they were very good but not at all what you expect when you order mussels in France. They were in a brown broth with a strong celery flavor and thin slices of celery throughout with a slightly hot after taste. Served with them was an avacado toast and there were more than enough mussels for two people. For our main dishes, Leas had buccatini with trumpets of death mushrooms (she is still with us) and I had meatballs. There were three good sized pork meatballs served in a bowl with a tomato sauce. They were served with a very large, long piece of toasted baguette with a mound of a whipped butter to spread on it. We thought the food was all very good and the room is very pleasant and comfortable. After lunch we walked over to Avenue and Suare Rapp to see the art nouveau doors by Lavirotte; really quite amazing. We walked rue Cler, a major shopping street where we picked up a Praululine at the Chocolatier Pralus. Leas read an article that said it was life changing and, although I wouldn't go that far, it is something I will really miss. It's a pastry made with brioche and studded throughout with pink candy bits and nuts. We ended up eating a slice for breakfast almost every day and we each brought one home with us to share with our families. We purchased a Food Passport which allows you to go to 6 or 12 different food spots for a tasting or sample and explanation of the shop by an employee or the owner. Today we made it to 4 of the spots where we tasted wine, callisons, caramels and meringues and met some interesting people who gave us the history of their food. After a short time back in the apartment we went over to Sainte Chapelle for a concert, performed by a string sextet. It was a beautiful classical concert and is so impressive to hear the music in that beautiful building. Walked across the Seine to Zimmer, a traditional old brasserie on the right bank. I had a bowl of onion soup and Leas had a potatoe salad with salmon. The food isn't outstanding but the red velvet and gold interior takes you back to the 40's and the food is good. Back to the apartment and to bed.
Wednesday, September 20, 2017
Stay tuned
Sorry but we've been so busy & so tired when we finally get back to the apartment that I haven't had time to fill you in on all we've done but I'm taking good notes so I'll get to it as soon as I can. When I get home, I'll figure out how to add pictures also. My energy level isn't what it was two years ago and we're making 6 plus miles walking every day and taking the metro a lot more than in the past.
Sunday, September 17, 2017
Wednesday & Thursday
Started out at the Dior exhibit at Arts & Decoratifs - really spectacular, beautiful clothes and they are displayed perfectly. Walked around the area and stopped at Saint Merry church and went to Pompidou center. Went to the top for the views but it was pouring so you couldn't see too far away. Stopped for a very light lunch of cheese and salad and a beer. Went to dinner at Chez Monsieur, delightful old bistro. Started with escargot and Leas had Iberian ham. I had veal stew which was really good and Leas had the sole menieure which she said was delicious. Finished with coffee gourmand which included pistachio creme brulee, strawberries with poached pears, a fruit square, a cookie and sage ice cream. A really delightful dinner. Put in a load of laundry before we left so it would be done by the time we got home.
Started at Roger la Grenouille for lunch - cute spot with lots of character and friendly owner. Both of us started with the mushroom veloute, which was perfect - silky and creamy with great flavor. Then I had the fried frog legs with 3 sauces, which were very good. It was almost like tempura, very light and super crunchy. One of the sauces was a red wine with a hint of barbecue and it was really good; both the bearnaise and mustard were a little too rich. Leas had a pork steak in a wine reduction. Very nice lunch! Then we went to the Delacroix & Rodin museums, as I hadn't seen the Rodin since they redid the house. Very nice, but the security measures are so stepped up everywhere with fences and tents etc that it detracts a little from the venue. On the way home we picked up salami, cheese and a baguette (already had wine, of course) for a dinner at home. Weather continues to be rain on and off, clouds and sun, wind and chill, but who cares - it's Paris.
Still can't add my pictures.
Started at Roger la Grenouille for lunch - cute spot with lots of character and friendly owner. Both of us started with the mushroom veloute, which was perfect - silky and creamy with great flavor. Then I had the fried frog legs with 3 sauces, which were very good. It was almost like tempura, very light and super crunchy. One of the sauces was a red wine with a hint of barbecue and it was really good; both the bearnaise and mustard were a little too rich. Leas had a pork steak in a wine reduction. Very nice lunch! Then we went to the Delacroix & Rodin museums, as I hadn't seen the Rodin since they redid the house. Very nice, but the security measures are so stepped up everywhere with fences and tents etc that it detracts a little from the venue. On the way home we picked up salami, cheese and a baguette (already had wine, of course) for a dinner at home. Weather continues to be rain on and off, clouds and sun, wind and chill, but who cares - it's Paris.
Still can't add my pictures.
Thursday, September 14, 2017
Monday -9/11 and Tuesday the 12 th
Went to St Denis to see the Basilica in the morning - dreary town but beautiful church where most of the Kings and queens of France are buried. Back into Paris by the Grand and Petit palaces, Place de Concorde, pont Alexander,
Place Vendome and the Obelisk. Stopped for a bite - Crepe and crostini. Saw St Roch, colette metro statio with its glass baubles and stopped at Le Grand Filles & Fils in Gallerie Vivienne for a glass of wine. I had a Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru, "clos de la Mouchere" 2009, domaine Henri Montet and a Saint Emilion 2009, Chateau Moulin Saint Georges. Both were very nice! Dinner at La Bourse et la Vie, a new restaurant by Daniel Rose. I started with pistou, which was very good - fresh vegetables al dente and a delicious broth. For my main course I ordered the veal pot au feu, which was served on two plates; first, the head covered with goat cheese and herbs and then the veal with potatoes, carrots and a beef marrow bone in a broth. Leas had charcroute which was sauerkraut and duck confit. We were not impressed. Walked to the metro through the Palais Royale.
Tuesday we rearranged our schedule as we got an email from the Dept of State warning us to avoid the huge demonstration starting at Bastlle so we meandered through the Marais; rue du Temple, garden du Rosier, a crepe at La Drougerie, rue St Honore and back home to rest & get ready for my birthday dinner at Restaurant Alan Geaam. Very pretty and comfortable restaurant done in grey (which seems to be the in color for restaurants) with white stone plares and bowls, all with curves and smooth lines. They gave us sesame seed and herb wafers to start folloed by an empanada filled with feta cheese. Amuse bouche of a hummus meringue with caviar, a potato crisp with creme fraiche, lemon & caviar and fallafel with lemon smoked salmon. All were very tasty little bites. We did the 5 course menu with wine pairing and our first course was crab with cauliflower three ways, pickled, steamed and as a mousse served with a chardonnay from Burgundy. Next was seared foie gras with a poached peach and chopped celery and berries served with Jurassique 2014 le pas Saint Martin Samur. The main course was veal mignons with smoked eggplant mousse and a roulade of eggplant and an unknown vegetable. The wine was a 2013 Mas Champart fom Saint-Chinian. There were two desserts the first was several types of grapes with chantilly and the other was fresh and poached figs with chocolate and chocolate ice cream. They were served with Yves-Guegniard Le Clos de la Bergerie. They also brought me a spun sugar cake with candles, marshmallows, fruit squares and cookies with chantilly for my birthday. It was an exceptional birthday dinner - interesting and delicious.
Place Vendome and the Obelisk. Stopped for a bite - Crepe and crostini. Saw St Roch, colette metro statio with its glass baubles and stopped at Le Grand Filles & Fils in Gallerie Vivienne for a glass of wine. I had a Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru, "clos de la Mouchere" 2009, domaine Henri Montet and a Saint Emilion 2009, Chateau Moulin Saint Georges. Both were very nice! Dinner at La Bourse et la Vie, a new restaurant by Daniel Rose. I started with pistou, which was very good - fresh vegetables al dente and a delicious broth. For my main course I ordered the veal pot au feu, which was served on two plates; first, the head covered with goat cheese and herbs and then the veal with potatoes, carrots and a beef marrow bone in a broth. Leas had charcroute which was sauerkraut and duck confit. We were not impressed. Walked to the metro through the Palais Royale.
Tuesday we rearranged our schedule as we got an email from the Dept of State warning us to avoid the huge demonstration starting at Bastlle so we meandered through the Marais; rue du Temple, garden du Rosier, a crepe at La Drougerie, rue St Honore and back home to rest & get ready for my birthday dinner at Restaurant Alan Geaam. Very pretty and comfortable restaurant done in grey (which seems to be the in color for restaurants) with white stone plares and bowls, all with curves and smooth lines. They gave us sesame seed and herb wafers to start folloed by an empanada filled with feta cheese. Amuse bouche of a hummus meringue with caviar, a potato crisp with creme fraiche, lemon & caviar and fallafel with lemon smoked salmon. All were very tasty little bites. We did the 5 course menu with wine pairing and our first course was crab with cauliflower three ways, pickled, steamed and as a mousse served with a chardonnay from Burgundy. Next was seared foie gras with a poached peach and chopped celery and berries served with Jurassique 2014 le pas Saint Martin Samur. The main course was veal mignons with smoked eggplant mousse and a roulade of eggplant and an unknown vegetable. The wine was a 2013 Mas Champart fom Saint-Chinian. There were two desserts the first was several types of grapes with chantilly and the other was fresh and poached figs with chocolate and chocolate ice cream. They were served with Yves-Guegniard Le Clos de la Bergerie. They also brought me a spun sugar cake with candles, marshmallows, fruit squares and cookies with chantilly for my birthday. It was an exceptional birthday dinner - interesting and delicious.
Tuesday, September 12, 2017
Sunday
Shopping at Bastille market, this time without the rain. Picked up rotisserie chicken & potatoes for dinner, melon, peaches, baguette & flowers and took them back to the apartment before setting out for Montmartre and lunch at Le Moulin de la Galette. Made the mistake of getting off the Metro at Abesses, the deepest station in the city. Wall murals are nice along the way but the climb hardly lets you enjoy them. Lunch was very good - pretty restaurant (restaurant in colors seem to be black, white and/or grey) - and the food was very good. We weren't very hungry so I had the gazpacho of green zebra tomatoes with smoked ricotta which was delicious and beautiful. I'd be happy with it for lunch often as the taste 100% fresh tomatoes. Leas had crab tartare with mayo between slices of cucumber- also very fresh & delicious. I opted for the meringue with strawberries which consisted of creme fraiche, strawberry sorbet, fresh strawberries & meringue slivers - very light and fresh tasting. The Montmartre museum is small but very nice and has some terrific views. Walked over to battle the crowds at Sacre Coeur and it wasn't too bad. Takes time to get into the bigger churches as they do a bag check now. We were about to leave when Vespers started so we stayed for a while to listen to the singing. Walked through Place de Tertre (packed), rue Lepic and then to the cemetary after stopping for a cafe creme for fortification. Big cemetary but nothing like Pere Lachese, and we wandered through - lots of people with watering cans tending to family graves. Back to the apartment for our dinner which was delicious and a perfect way to end the day.
Still working on pics but blogger wont let me access them.
Still working on pics but blogger wont let me access them.
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